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In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Matan

Comment #1: Fri, 24 Feb 2017, 10:35 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi.
I built the antennas, and I'm having some performance problems.
I' using the same cable and connector you give links to, made the PCB's at elecrow, and assembles using your jig and following your video.

I think it's because of a minor mistake on the gap between the PCBs, they are about 0.1-0.2mm closer then what you specified.
Could that be the reason? if not, what else?

I intend to design a new jig that will make the assembly more convenient, as well as more accurate. (and will that will be 3d printed and not laser cut, which is where my inaccuracy come from)

So, do you think its possible to cut a notch in the two big PCBs so they will be at a fixed position in the jig? (instead of the silkscreen lines, cut three tiny notches on the outer part of the PCB and have a dimple in the jig that will sit in the notch so they will be at fixed position to one another)

Will it have an impact on the performance?
If it's OK, how can I alter the design? with what program?

Thanks,
Matan.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Tok

Comment #2: Thu, 23 Feb 2017, 20:46 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi Marteen

Are there any plans for a 1280Mhz version of the pagoda ?

Br
Thor Magne
Norway

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Willem

Comment #3: Thu, 23 Feb 2017, 14:52 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Dag Maarten, waar kan ik de kits voor deze antennes kopen in België aub?
Mvg.

In SimpleScreenRecorder / Live streaming:

Opssyq

Comment #4: Wed, 22 Feb 2017, 10:37 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


HI Maarten,

Im using the SSR for the a week now and its working great with our WOWZA streaming server via RTMP stream. however when i enable the RTMP authentication on WOWZA i couldn't manage to push the stream from SSR, i cant find a way yet on how/what will be right RTMP parameters that should includes the username and password.

Do you have any advise?

Thank you.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Gadgetfpv

Comment #5: Tue, 21 Feb 2017, 10:31 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Dear Maarten,

Thank you so much for responding to my last post...

Now my PCB supplier is asking whether the PCB is Single or Double Sided? Would you be kind enough to let me know...

Last modified: Tue, 21 Feb 2017, 10:42 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #6: Tue, 21 Feb 2017, 1:40 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Peter62233460

Hi Marteen! Thanks for designing this awesome antenna.

I would like to build the antenna and I was wondering whether I could use other coaxes instead of the RG402 you recommend. I bought some RG316 cables years ago and I am wondering whether this would be okay to use. As for the construction jig, I can modify the design to accept the narrower cable and laser cut it.

Thanks,

Peter.

The design is made for RG402 and won't perform properly with cables that have a different diameter. It requires re-optimization of the design. I don't have time to do that now though. Also, RG316 is likely too flexible for this antenna.

Quote: Pauloxzr

Hello Maarten Baert! Greetings from Brazil! My name is Paul! First of all I want to congratulate you for your brilliant work! I've always wanted to make my own antennas and with your project I see that I have the opportunity to make my first antenna correctly and accurately. I have spent a lot of money buying antennas that are not efficient and resistant, and I found in your project what I need. In the city and country where I live I do not have many resources, like a company that makes PCBs. I have only people who have machines that do the cutting and drawing of PCBs, but these machines only receive source files made in pcad, orcad, proteus, eagle. Is there any way to convert Gerber files to be interpreted on these machines and programs? I am very interested in your project! I do not want to make antennas for resale or make money, I just want it for personal use in my racing drone. I have an intermediate experience in electronics, and I can build the antennas precisely as described in the videos I saw on your site. The only detail is that I do not have the machine to cut the PCBs. Thank you very much for what you can do for me. Thank you very much.

I sent you DXF files by email, try to use those. Gerber files are still the recommended format though, it's the industry standard for PCB design. I've never heard of any manufacturer that can't accept Gerber files.

Quote: Gadgetfpv

Hi..

Thank you for sharing this design... can't wait to try... one quick question... the smaller disc in the assembly has copper in it, correct...

Sorry if this a simple question, quite new to all of this PCB design stuff...

Gadget

Yes, the bottom side of the small disk is almost entirely covered with copper.

Quote: Luno

Hi!

I've got a Beerotor Honeydrop antenna which is using your Pagoda design. The cable shielding is missing between the top and the middle PCBs. I wonder if this antenna performs bad because of that.

http://forum.rcdesign.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=1298680&d=1487348602

I have seem many people complain about build quality issues with that antenna. Problems with the SMA connector, bad PCB alignment, cases that fall apart, bad soldering and so on. I don't recommend it.

Quote: Nhillerby

Hello Maarten, could this sma cord included in the pagoda 2 kit be cut down to a shorter length? It's a bit lengthy for fpv. Thank you for your genious invention.

You can shorten it, but this will bring the antenna closer to the quadcopter frame which will result in a larger 'dead zone' where the frame is blocking the signal. Just be aware of that.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Nhillerby

Comment #7: Mon, 20 Feb 2017, 2:23 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hello Maarten, could this sma cord included in the pagoda 2 kit be cut down to a shorter length? It's a bit lengthy for fpv. Thank you for your genious invention.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Luno

Comment #8: Fri, 17 Feb 2017, 22:19 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi!

I've got a Beerotor Honeydrop antenna which is using your Pagoda design. The cable shielding is missing between the top and the middle PCBs. I wonder if this antenna performs bad because of that.

http://forum.rcdesign.ru/attachment.php?attachmentid=1298680&d=1487348602

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Gadgetfpv

Comment #9: Fri, 17 Feb 2017, 16:04 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi..

Thank you for sharing this design... can't wait to try... one quick question... the smaller disc in the assembly has copper in it, correct...

Sorry if this a simple question, quite new to all of this PCB design stuff...

Gadget

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Pauloxzr

Comment #10: Thu, 16 Feb 2017, 7:08 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hello Maarten Baert! Greetings from Brazil! My name is Paul! First of all I want to congratulate you for your brilliant work! I've always wanted to make my own antennas and with your project I see that I have the opportunity to make my first antenna correctly and accurately. I have spent a lot of money buying antennas that are not efficient and resistant, and I found in your project what I need. In the city and country where I live I do not have many resources, like a company that makes PCBs. I have only people who have machines that do the cutting and drawing of PCBs, but these machines only receive source files made in pcad, orcad, proteus, eagle. Is there any way to convert Gerber files to be interpreted on these machines and programs? I am very interested in your project! I do not want to make antennas for resale or make money, I just want it for personal use in my racing drone. I have an intermediate experience in electronics, and I can build the antennas precisely as described in the videos I saw on your site. The only detail is that I do not have the machine to cut the PCBs. Thank you very much for what you can do for me. Thank you very much.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Peter62233460

Comment #11: Sun, 5 Feb 2017, 20:47 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi Marteen! Thanks for designing this awesome antenna.

I would like to build the antenna and I was wondering whether I could use other coaxes instead of the RG402 you recommend. I bought some RG316 cables years ago and I am wondering whether this would be okay to use. As for the construction jig, I can modify the design to accept the narrower cable and laser cut it.

Thanks,

Peter.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #12: Sat, 4 Feb 2017, 21:22 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Serop72

Hello!in figure assembly distance between the layers of 3.65mm and 10.45mm
in the assembly jig 3.85mm and 10.65mm (I measure up to the laser cutting file)

It is right?

Thank you for your work! very interesting design, I'm going to do the antenna

The correct numbers are 3.65mm and 10.45mm. The laser cutting drawing was adjusted to compensate for the line width of the laser, which is roughly 0.2mm (at least for the model that I'm using). If the slots are too narrow, you can easily widen them with some fine sandpaper or a small file. If they are too wide, they don't hold the PCB in place very well which is annoying. They also widen automatically as you use them because the jig wears out over time.

Quote: Stinkyjohn

Hi to all,
thanks Maarten for design. Made 18 antennas for my and my friends.
One of them has spectrum analyser at lab, so we checked them. They has good vswr - 1.23 to 1.35
But to bet true they are very very sensitive to assembly process.
Dimension tolerances should be very tight and even after that resonation point can flow about +-150Mhz (few of them was away at 180Mhz).
I've designed to that new assembly jig with 4 support points of pcb's. Cut it on CNC and it's from G10 and has very tight fit.
I'm not talking that design is bad, but you should know how tight tolerances are for 5.8Ghz. We done many cloverleafs to our racing drones (don't know why, but they don't have long live :) ) so I know how at 5.8Ghz precise you should be when making antennas for 5.8Ghz to archive good repeatability (within 100Mhz), and even after that some of antennas are off 300Mhz ;)

This is strange, I can get much better repeatability myself and I'm also using manual assembly. The 'VNA measurement' graph above shows three units which I assembled manually, I was seeing only about 50 MHz variation.

I have found that the solder joints matter a lot. Make sure that you are using the right amount of solder and heating the joints long enough to ensure they reflow properly (like I do in my assembly video).

Quote: Stinkyjohn

I've also noted that connector type and manufacture of cable will also have impact on antenna.
After my findings i've found discussion on RCG about differences in Chinese SMA and RP-SMA connectors and cables. As I remember Martin7182 or markus123456 confirmed that theory. Alex also often talks about quality of cables.

Yes, I have noticed that too. The length of the cable also has some impact because it affects the phase shift between the SMA connector and the antenna. If the connector was perfect, this would not matter, but the fact that I can measure a difference indicates that the SMA connector I'm using isn't perfect.

Quote: Stinkyjohn

And one more thing, beware printed cases for Pagodas. I've printed them from PLA, PLA+, TPU, ABS, PETG and TITANX.
They all shifts antenna and a lot. Shift strictly depends on filament, how many (how thick) you use. I've tried ready designs and my own - with minimal amount of filament - all off them shifts antenna. So we will use Pagodas without cases.

I know - if you want a case, you should consider scaling the antenna down to compensate for the frequency shift. But if the case is thin enough, the shift is quite small, so the antenna will still work quite well. I have done measurements of the MenaceRC model with case, and it was only shifted down by about 100 MHz.

In SimpleScreenRecorder / Recording for YouTube:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #13: Sat, 4 Feb 2017, 20:53 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Harishpathangay

hi,
how to make sure that i am recording from external mic and not internal mic?

thanks,
harish pathangay

That depends completely on your hardware. Try running 'alsamixer' in a terminal, there is probably a switch you can toggle.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Stinkyjohn

Comment #14: Fri, 3 Feb 2017, 10:03 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi to all,
thanks Maarten for design. Made 18 antennas for my and my friends.
One of them has spectrum analyser at lab, so we checked them. They has good vswr - 1.23 to 1.35
But to bet true they are very very sensitive to assembly process.
Dimension tolerances should be very tight and even after that resonation point can flow about +-150Mhz (few of them was away at 180Mhz).
I've designed to that new assembly jig with 4 support points of pcb's. Cut it on CNC and it's from G10 and has very tight fit.
I'm not talking that design is bad, but you should know how tight tolerances are for 5.8Ghz. We done many cloverleafs to our racing drones (don't know why, but they don't have long live :) ) so I know how at 5.8Ghz precise you should be when making antennas for 5.8Ghz to archive good repeatability (within 100Mhz), and even after that some of antennas are off 300Mhz ;)
I've also noted that connector type and manufacture of cable will also have impact on antenna.
After my findings i've found discussion on RCG about differences in Chinese SMA and RP-SMA connectors and cables. As I remember Martin7182 or markus123456 confirmed that theory. Alex also often talks about quality of cables.

And one more thing, beware printed cases for Pagodas. I've printed them from PLA, PLA+, TPU, ABS, PETG and TITANX.
They all shifts antenna and a lot. Shift strictly depends on filament, how many (how thick) you use. I've tried ready designs and my own - with minimal amount of filament - all off them shifts antenna. So we will use Pagodas without cases.

Anyway, great design. When weather will allow, we will test them on our racing field.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Serop72

Comment #15: Sun, 29 Jan 2017, 21:08 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hello!in figure assembly distance between the layers of 3.65mm and 10.45mm
in the assembly jig 3.85mm and 10.65mm (I measure up to the laser cutting file)

It is right?

Thank you for your work! very interesting design, I'm going to do the antenna

In SimpleScreenRecorder / Recording for YouTube:

Harishpathangay

Comment #16: Fri, 27 Jan 2017, 18:00 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


hi,
how to make sure that i am recording from external mic and not internal mic?

thanks,
harish pathangay

In Game Maker DLLs / Buffers:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #17: Wed, 25 Jan 2017, 23:42 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Jmscreator

When reading from a buffer, if you read more than what is in the buffer, zero is returned(this isn't the issue I'm referring to). Now I do my best to write clean code, and I make it nearly impossible for this to happen, but with sockets, and data that can sometimes glitch once in a great while, there is still the possibility for a buffer read to read outside of the buffer size.

As far as I can tell there is no bug here, you just misunderstand how buffers work. If your buffer has one byte remaining, and you try to read a type that is two bytes large, nothing is read, the error flag is set, and the function just returns a default value (0). The position does not change. So no matter how many times you call buffer_read_uint16, you will never read that last byte.

What you should do instead is call buffer_get_error after reading a message to verify that nothing went wrong. Situations like this will set the error flag, and it won't be cleared until you call buffer_clear_error or buffer_clear.

Also, as long as the error flag is set, all read functions will return zero (or empty strings in some cases).

Last modified: Wed, 25 Jan 2017, 23:44 (GMT+1, DST)

In Game Maker DLLs / Buffers:

Jmscreator

Comment #18: Mon, 23 Jan 2017, 17:16 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hello! I have found an interesting buffer overflow bug with http-dll-2 buffers.
Here it is:

When reading from a buffer, if you read more than what is in the buffer, zero is returned(this isn't the issue I'm referring to). Now I do my best to write clean code, and I make it nearly impossible for this to happen, but with sockets, and data that can sometimes glitch once in a great while, there is still the possibility for a buffer read to read outside of the buffer size.
A lot of people, including myself do the following when looping through a buffer:

while(!buffer_at_end(buf)){
   ...loop through commands...
}

The problem is, under the right circumstances, buffer_at_end(buf) is returning false even though it's at the end of the buffer! I did a series of tests to get to this conclusion:

Quote

If you read an intX value from a buffer that has 1 intY value written to it, the read position starts at the beginning (0), and X(the integer size you are reading) is greater than Y(the integer size that was written), buffer_at_end() for that buffer will return false.

Here is a sequential code run that I did:

buf = buffer_create();
buffer_write_uint8(buf, 10);
(buffer_at_end(buf) == false) //This is correct
buffer_read_uint8(buf) == 10
(buffer_at_end(buf) == true) //This is correct
buffer_read_uint8(buf) == 0;
(buffer_at_end(buf) == true) //This is correct
//Here is where the problem happens:
buffer_clear(buf);
buffer_write_uint8(buf, 10);
(buffer_read_uint16(buf) == 0) //This is correct - but: reading an integer value that is larger than the written integer at the end of the buffer causes an issue:
(buffer_at_end(buf) == false) //This is incorrect! It has surpassed the buffer size, and should be true! But it is not.
(buffer_read_uint8(buf) == 0)
(buffer_at_end(buf) == false) //This is still incorrect

Now because it returns false, while(!buffer_at_end(buf)) will loop forever no matter how many times you read from the buffer. I implement a timeout now, so that if it does happen, my game doesn't crash.

I hope this helps you out! And that you may provide a fix at some point.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dmg

Comment #19: Tue, 17 Jan 2017, 22:07 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Midge

Dmg, could you post a link to the file you had manufactured by elecrow? I'm not familiar with pcb or panelizing and would like to make some antennas for myself.

Here, I just posted them:
https://github.com/Repo-IEEEsb/DroneRacing/tree/master/Desarrollos/Pagodas-Panelizada

Boards arrived, I've assembled one today, so far looks good. About 500 MHz bandwidth (-10 dB return loss) with a resonant frequency of 5,83 GHz (RL peaks at -35 dB).

We'll see how the radiation pattern turns out.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #20: Mon, 16 Jan 2017, 4:09 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Heribert

But I can surely understand that the work you would have to put into to get it optimal is a lot.
Would there be a fast rough (non optimal) way for scaling, which I could do?

Yes, halve the width of the ring-shaped pad that solders to the coax, and increase the spacing between the PCBs by 0.5mm to compensate of the change in thickness. This will probably shift the frequency up a bit, so scale up the arms about 5% to shift the frequency down again. I'm just guessing here so don't be surprised if the result performs poorly.

Quote: Heribert

And how much worse would the performance be without the third GND-PCB?

You will lose some of the power as it is propagating along the coax. The result depends on how the coax attaches to the TX, the shape of the TX etc, so basically impossible to predict. I don't recommend it.

Quote: Heribert

BTW, how much would the performance be affected if one would route away the non copper parts of the PCB? (this could also decrease the weight signigicantly.)

It's all fixable with sufficient re-optimization but this takes a lot of time.

If you want to reduce weight, your biggest target should probably be the RG402 coax. Thinner coax is probably better for your application.

Quote: Heribert

Would it eventually be possible for you to publish your NEC simulation file?
Then I could try myself to get the best scaling for a 0.5mm PCB and also try if one could route away more of the unused PCB.

I do not use NEC. NEC is pretty much worthless for these types of antennas at this frequency. The results are just completely off. You need something like HFSS or CST (but those are both far too expensive for hobbyists, so you need to be a student at a university or something to get a chance to use it).

Quote: Elsvs09

Can we design this antenna for 2.4 GHz? I guess scales of the antenna would be bigger than 5.8 GHz, but the point is how big. Are the proportions scaled to operation wavelength? Thanks in advance.

Roughly speaking, yes, but in practice not everything is easy to scale. The PCB and coax would become too thick, so you probably don't want to scale those. I would have to re-optimize the design. Also, at 2.4 GHz the size is about 53mm which is a bit impractical. Cloverleafs may be a better option at that frequency.

Last modified: Mon, 16 Jan 2017, 4:12 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Elsvs09

Comment #21: Sun, 15 Jan 2017, 14:38 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi Maarten,

Can we design this antenna for 2.4 GHz? I guess scales of the antenna would be bigger than 5.8 GHz, but the point is how big. Are the proportions scaled to operation wavelength? Thanks in advance.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Heribert

Comment #22: Wed, 11 Jan 2017, 16:48 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hello,

You wrote above that a 0.5mm PCB would be basically possible, actually from a HF point even more beneficial.

As I'm interested in flying nano and pico drones, I'm interested in as lightweight antennas as possible. That's why I really would like a 0.5mm PCB design.
I honestly don't think that this would be a stability problem, as they are pretty small and even 0.5mm FR4 is actually pretty stable.

But I can surely understand that the work you would have to put into to get it optimal is a lot.
Would there be a fast rough (non optimal) way for scaling, which I could do?

And how much worse would the performance be without the third GND-PCB?

Thanks for your work and that you share it!!!

EDIT:
BTW, how much would the performance be affected if one would route away the non copper parts of the PCB? (this could also decrease the weight signigicantly.)

EDIT2:
Would it eventually be possible for you to publish your NEC simulation file?
Then I could try myself to get the best scaling for a 0.5mm PCB and also try if one could route away more of the unused PCB.

Last modified: Sat, 14 Jan 2017, 10:29 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dmg

Comment #23: Tue, 10 Jan 2017, 15:24 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Midge

Dmg, could you post a link to the file you had manufactured by elecrow? I'm not familiar with pcb or panelizing and would like to make some antennas for myself.

Yes, but not yet. I'll wait for the boards to arrive to check if everything is OK, and if it is I'll post the files somewhere. The boards are already in Europe, so I expect them this week. I went the lazy way and panelized them using the Altium Designer gerber importer, and although I checked the resulting panelized gerbers against the original design files and they seemed OK I want to be 100% sure that nothing is messed up (apart from the silkscreen text which got messed but I didn't bother to fix)

Also, we've got an anechoic chamber where I work and the guy responsible for it owes me a favor, so he'll measure some pagodas I make when he has some spare time and the chamber isn't being used (i.e someday in the (hopefully near) future). I'll send the results to Maarten when it's done.

I really like this design, as me and some friends fly race drones as a hobby and no matter how expensive the antenna we always end up tearing the cable, breaking the antenna, and/or messing them. I don't expect these pagodas to be any tougher in the long term, but they can be made for 2€ a pop or cheaper. That's 10 antennas for the price of one of the ones we use now... and likely with better performance.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Midge

Comment #24: Sun, 8 Jan 2017, 16:20 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Dmg

Hi,

I've got a lot of experience pushing chinese pcb services to the limits, and I have to tell you that they don't explain well what they mean about panelizing and extra cost. They charge you extra if:
-You want them to panelize your design
-You want them to add features to your panel
-You specify V grooving as separation method

Anything else gets through just fine, don't even bother asking, just send them the mechanical layer specifying where to cut, make sure that you don't go below 1mm routing tool diameter (better if you stick to >= 2mm) and maybe send them a picture of a 3D render of how the PCB should look like, that's it.

I've got a lot of panelized PCB's manufactured that way at no extra cost by elecrow, smart prototyping and such, and they've never complained.

I also panelized your pagodas, fitting all 3 PCB's on a single 50x70 board and sent them to elecrow. They're already manufactured and shipped, and I'm waiting for them to arrive.
This is what I sent them:
[img]http://i66.tinypic.com/hs8jl4.png[/img]
Using standard 50x100mm 2 layer PCB service for I think it was 12$
This is what they have manufactured (part of the order picture they send you when they ship it):
[img]http://i63.tinypic.com/160c006.png[/img]

By the way, can I make the coax wire shorter than 9 cm overall? I'd like to have mini pagodas with 5cm cable but I'm not sure if that would affect the performance. Thanks for the awesome design!

Dmg, could you post a link to the file you had manufactured by elecrow? I'm not familiar with pcb or panelizing and would like to make some antennas for myself.

In Model Creator / Documentation:

Nick Kallinosis

Comment #25: Sun, 8 Jan 2017, 5:47 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Maarten Baert
Quote: Nick Kallinosis

Hi Maarten.

I have a new computer and am trying to load model creator. I have it on another computer.

But when I try to open, it says Cannot load file, Data seems corrupted.

Any idea what the problem is?

Thanks,
Nick

I assume you're running a newer version of Windows now. Try going into the properties of the Model Creator executable and run it in Windows 7 compatibility mode. If that doesn't work, try downloading it again to make sure the file is not actually corrupted. If that also doesn't work, I can't help you.

Thanks Maarten. Worked perfectly. You really should put one of the Donate buttons somewhere.

Thank you.

In Model Creator / Documentation:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #26: Sun, 8 Jan 2017, 3:40 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Nick Kallinosis

Hi Maarten.

I have a new computer and am trying to load model creator. I have it on another computer.

But when I try to open, it says Cannot load file, Data seems corrupted.

Any idea what the problem is?

Thanks,
Nick

I assume you're running a newer version of Windows now. Try going into the properties of the Model Creator executable and run it in Windows 7 compatibility mode. If that doesn't work, try downloading it again to make sure the file is not actually corrupted. If that also doesn't work, I can't help you.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #27: Sun, 8 Jan 2017, 2:10 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Dmg

Hi,

I've got a lot of experience pushing chinese pcb services to the limits, and I have to tell you that they don't explain well what they mean about panelizing and extra cost. They charge you extra if:
-You want them to panelize your design
-You want them to add features to your panel
-You specify V grooving as separation method

Anything else gets through just fine, don't even bother asking, just send them the mechanical layer specifying where to cut, make sure that you don't go below 1mm routing tool diameter (better if you stick to >= 2mm) and maybe send them a picture of a 3D render of how the PCB should look like, that's it.

I've got a lot of panelized PCB's manufactured that way at no extra cost by elecrow, smart prototyping and such, and they've never complained.

I also panelized your pagodas, fitting all 3 PCB's on a single 50x70 board and sent them to elecrow. They're already manufactured and shipped, and I'm waiting for them to arrive.
This is what I sent them:
[img]http://i66.tinypic.com/hs8jl4.png[/img]
Using standard 50x100mm 2 layer PCB service for I think it was 12$
This is what they have manufactured (part of the order picture they send you when they ship it):
[img]http://i63.tinypic.com/160c006.png[/img]

By the way, can I make the coax wire shorter than 9 cm overall? I'd like to have mini pagodas with 5cm cable but I'm not sure if that would affect the performance. Thanks for the awesome design!

That's good to know!

The important thing is the distance between the antenna and the quadcopter frame (or any other large conductive objects). So it really depends on the mounting method. More distance is always better because it reduces the 'dead zones' where your frame is blocking the signal. It depends on how much you value physical size over signal quality I guess.

In Model Creator / Documentation:

Nick Kallinosis

Comment #28: Sat, 7 Jan 2017, 1:38 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi Maarten.

I have a new computer and am trying to load model creator. I have it on another computer.

But when I try to open, it says Cannot load file, Data seems corrupted.

Any idea what the problem is?

Thanks,
Nick

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dmg

Comment #29: Fri, 6 Jan 2017, 3:01 (GMT+1, DST)

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Hi,

I've got a lot of experience pushing chinese pcb services to the limits, and I have to tell you that they don't explain well what they mean about panelizing and extra cost. They charge you extra if:
-You want them to panelize your design
-You want them to add features to your panel
-You specify V grooving as separation method

Anything else gets through just fine, don't even bother asking, just send them the mechanical layer specifying where to cut, make sure that you don't go below 1mm routing tool diameter (better if you stick to >= 2mm) and maybe send them a picture of a 3D render of how the PCB should look like, that's it.

I've got a lot of panelized PCB's manufactured that way at no extra cost by elecrow, smart prototyping and such, and they've never complained.

I also panelized your pagodas, fitting all 3 PCB's on a single 50x70 board and sent them to elecrow. They're already manufactured and shipped, and I'm waiting for them to arrive.
This is what I sent them:
[img]http://i66.tinypic.com/hs8jl4.png[/img]
Using standard 50x100mm 2 layer PCB service for I think it was 12$
This is what they have manufactured (part of the order picture they send you when they ship it):
[img]http://i63.tinypic.com/160c006.png[/img]

By the way, can I make the coax wire shorter than 9 cm overall? I'd like to have mini pagodas with 5cm cable but I'm not sure if that would affect the performance. Thanks for the awesome design!

In SimpleScreenRecorder / Recording game audio:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #30: Thu, 5 Jan 2017, 3:13 (GMT+1, DST)

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Quote: Shneekeythelost

There is now a dead easy way to use ALSA to record your audio and game audio without having to use JACK or jump through hoops or anything. This requires using an analog headset with the prongs going into the front headset/mike plugs. Not sure if this will work for a USB headset or not, but probably not.

First off, you'll need one of many different ALSA mixers. Find one, use it.

You should see a bunch of sliders. There's going to be two labeled 'front mike', one is able to be muted, and probably is by default, the other just doesn't have a mute button.

Adjust both front mike sliders (I would strongly advise AGAINST maxing them, try middle of the slider bar first), then un-mute. You should hear yourself over your mike in your headset. However, unlike the looping thing through Pulse, you don't have a brief delay which can be so annoying.

Now just record monitor of (I use monitor of analog just to be sure, but default should work), and you should get both game and mike audio. No looping, no JACK, it just works. Then when you are done recording, head to the ALSA mixer, mute the mike, and you're good to go.

I did this with a Razer Kraken Pro, but any headset which plugs in to the front of your tower should work using this method.

So you're saying that the 'monitor' feature in PulseAudio is able to capture not just sound from applications but also microphone sound if you enable hardware playthrough in the ALSA mixer settings? That's really surprising actually, I thought that PulseAudio didn't work that way.

Edit: I just tried this but I'm not getting any microphone sound in SSR. Are you sure that you didn't have any loopback plugins running in the background?

Last modified: Thu, 5 Jan 2017, 3:19 (GMT+1, DST)