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In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dmg

Comment #1: Tue, 17 Jan 2017, 22:07 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Midge

Dmg, could you post a link to the file you had manufactured by elecrow? I'm not familiar with pcb or panelizing and would like to make some antennas for myself.

Here, I just posted them:
https://github.com/Repo-IEEEsb/DroneRacing/tree/master/Desarrollos/Pagodas-Panelizada

Boards arrived, I've assembled one today, so far looks good. About 500 MHz bandwidth (-10 dB return loss) with a resonant frequency of 5,83 GHz (RL peaks at -35 dB).

We'll see how the radiation pattern turns out.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #2: Mon, 16 Jan 2017, 4:09 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Heribert

But I can surely understand that the work you would have to put into to get it optimal is a lot.
Would there be a fast rough (non optimal) way for scaling, which I could do?

Yes, halve the width of the ring-shaped pad that solders to the coax, and increase the spacing between the PCBs by 0.5mm to compensate of the change in thickness. This will probably shift the frequency up a bit, so scale up the arms about 5% to shift the frequency down again. I'm just guessing here so don't be surprised if the result performs poorly.

Quote: Heribert

And how much worse would the performance be without the third GND-PCB?

You will lose some of the power as it is propagating along the coax. The result depends on how the coax attaches to the TX, the shape of the TX etc, so basically impossible to predict. I don't recommend it.

Quote: Heribert

BTW, how much would the performance be affected if one would route away the non copper parts of the PCB? (this could also decrease the weight signigicantly.)

It's all fixable with sufficient re-optimization but this takes a lot of time.

If you want to reduce weight, your biggest target should probably be the RG402 coax. Thinner coax is probably better for your application.

Quote: Heribert

Would it eventually be possible for you to publish your NEC simulation file?
Then I could try myself to get the best scaling for a 0.5mm PCB and also try if one could route away more of the unused PCB.

I do not use NEC. NEC is pretty much worthless for these types of antennas at this frequency. The results are just completely off. You need something like HFSS or CST (but those are both far too expensive for hobbyists, so you need to be a student at a university or something to get a chance to use it).

Quote: Elsvs09

Can we design this antenna for 2.4 GHz? I guess scales of the antenna would be bigger than 5.8 GHz, but the point is how big. Are the proportions scaled to operation wavelength? Thanks in advance.

Roughly speaking, yes, but in practice not everything is easy to scale. The PCB and coax would become too thick, so you probably don't want to scale those. I would have to re-optimize the design. Also, at 2.4 GHz the size is about 53mm which is a bit impractical. Cloverleafs may be a better option at that frequency.

Last modified: Mon, 16 Jan 2017, 4:12 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Elsvs09

Comment #3: Sun, 15 Jan 2017, 14:38 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi Maarten,

Can we design this antenna for 2.4 GHz? I guess scales of the antenna would be bigger than 5.8 GHz, but the point is how big. Are the proportions scaled to operation wavelength? Thanks in advance.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Heribert

Comment #4: Wed, 11 Jan 2017, 16:48 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hello,

You wrote above that a 0.5mm PCB would be basically possible, actually from a HF point even more beneficial.

As I'm interested in flying nano and pico drones, I'm interested in as lightweight antennas as possible. That's why I really would like a 0.5mm PCB design.
I honestly don't think that this would be a stability problem, as they are pretty small and even 0.5mm FR4 is actually pretty stable.

But I can surely understand that the work you would have to put into to get it optimal is a lot.
Would there be a fast rough (non optimal) way for scaling, which I could do?

And how much worse would the performance be without the third GND-PCB?

Thanks for your work and that you share it!!!

EDIT:
BTW, how much would the performance be affected if one would route away the non copper parts of the PCB? (this could also decrease the weight signigicantly.)

EDIT2:
Would it eventually be possible for you to publish your NEC simulation file?
Then I could try myself to get the best scaling for a 0.5mm PCB and also try if one could route away more of the unused PCB.

Last modified: Sat, 14 Jan 2017, 10:29 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dmg

Comment #5: Tue, 10 Jan 2017, 15:24 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Midge

Dmg, could you post a link to the file you had manufactured by elecrow? I'm not familiar with pcb or panelizing and would like to make some antennas for myself.

Yes, but not yet. I'll wait for the boards to arrive to check if everything is OK, and if it is I'll post the files somewhere. The boards are already in Europe, so I expect them this week. I went the lazy way and panelized them using the Altium Designer gerber importer, and although I checked the resulting panelized gerbers against the original design files and they seemed OK I want to be 100% sure that nothing is messed up (apart from the silkscreen text which got messed but I didn't bother to fix)

Also, we've got an anechoic chamber where I work and the guy responsible for it owes me a favor, so he'll measure some pagodas I make when he has some spare time and the chamber isn't being used (i.e someday in the (hopefully near) future). I'll send the results to Maarten when it's done.

I really like this design, as me and some friends fly race drones as a hobby and no matter how expensive the antenna we always end up tearing the cable, breaking the antenna, and/or messing them. I don't expect these pagodas to be any tougher in the long term, but they can be made for 2€ a pop or cheaper. That's 10 antennas for the price of one of the ones we use now... and likely with better performance.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Midge

Comment #6: Sun, 8 Jan 2017, 16:20 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Dmg

Hi,

I've got a lot of experience pushing chinese pcb services to the limits, and I have to tell you that they don't explain well what they mean about panelizing and extra cost. They charge you extra if:
-You want them to panelize your design
-You want them to add features to your panel
-You specify V grooving as separation method

Anything else gets through just fine, don't even bother asking, just send them the mechanical layer specifying where to cut, make sure that you don't go below 1mm routing tool diameter (better if you stick to >= 2mm) and maybe send them a picture of a 3D render of how the PCB should look like, that's it.

I've got a lot of panelized PCB's manufactured that way at no extra cost by elecrow, smart prototyping and such, and they've never complained.

I also panelized your pagodas, fitting all 3 PCB's on a single 50x70 board and sent them to elecrow. They're already manufactured and shipped, and I'm waiting for them to arrive.
This is what I sent them:
[img]http://i66.tinypic.com/hs8jl4.png[/img]
Using standard 50x100mm 2 layer PCB service for I think it was 12$
This is what they have manufactured (part of the order picture they send you when they ship it):
[img]http://i63.tinypic.com/160c006.png[/img]

By the way, can I make the coax wire shorter than 9 cm overall? I'd like to have mini pagodas with 5cm cable but I'm not sure if that would affect the performance. Thanks for the awesome design!

Dmg, could you post a link to the file you had manufactured by elecrow? I'm not familiar with pcb or panelizing and would like to make some antennas for myself.

In Model Creator / Documentation:

Nick Kallinosis

Comment #7: Sun, 8 Jan 2017, 5:47 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Maarten Baert
Quote: Nick Kallinosis

Hi Maarten.

I have a new computer and am trying to load model creator. I have it on another computer.

But when I try to open, it says Cannot load file, Data seems corrupted.

Any idea what the problem is?

Thanks,
Nick

I assume you're running a newer version of Windows now. Try going into the properties of the Model Creator executable and run it in Windows 7 compatibility mode. If that doesn't work, try downloading it again to make sure the file is not actually corrupted. If that also doesn't work, I can't help you.

Thanks Maarten. Worked perfectly. You really should put one of the Donate buttons somewhere.

Thank you.

In Model Creator / Documentation:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #8: Sun, 8 Jan 2017, 3:40 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Nick Kallinosis

Hi Maarten.

I have a new computer and am trying to load model creator. I have it on another computer.

But when I try to open, it says Cannot load file, Data seems corrupted.

Any idea what the problem is?

Thanks,
Nick

I assume you're running a newer version of Windows now. Try going into the properties of the Model Creator executable and run it in Windows 7 compatibility mode. If that doesn't work, try downloading it again to make sure the file is not actually corrupted. If that also doesn't work, I can't help you.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #9: Sun, 8 Jan 2017, 2:10 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Dmg

Hi,

I've got a lot of experience pushing chinese pcb services to the limits, and I have to tell you that they don't explain well what they mean about panelizing and extra cost. They charge you extra if:
-You want them to panelize your design
-You want them to add features to your panel
-You specify V grooving as separation method

Anything else gets through just fine, don't even bother asking, just send them the mechanical layer specifying where to cut, make sure that you don't go below 1mm routing tool diameter (better if you stick to >= 2mm) and maybe send them a picture of a 3D render of how the PCB should look like, that's it.

I've got a lot of panelized PCB's manufactured that way at no extra cost by elecrow, smart prototyping and such, and they've never complained.

I also panelized your pagodas, fitting all 3 PCB's on a single 50x70 board and sent them to elecrow. They're already manufactured and shipped, and I'm waiting for them to arrive.
This is what I sent them:
[img]http://i66.tinypic.com/hs8jl4.png[/img]
Using standard 50x100mm 2 layer PCB service for I think it was 12$
This is what they have manufactured (part of the order picture they send you when they ship it):
[img]http://i63.tinypic.com/160c006.png[/img]

By the way, can I make the coax wire shorter than 9 cm overall? I'd like to have mini pagodas with 5cm cable but I'm not sure if that would affect the performance. Thanks for the awesome design!

That's good to know!

The important thing is the distance between the antenna and the quadcopter frame (or any other large conductive objects). So it really depends on the mounting method. More distance is always better because it reduces the 'dead zones' where your frame is blocking the signal. It depends on how much you value physical size over signal quality I guess.

In Model Creator / Documentation:

Nick Kallinosis

Comment #10: Sat, 7 Jan 2017, 1:38 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi Maarten.

I have a new computer and am trying to load model creator. I have it on another computer.

But when I try to open, it says Cannot load file, Data seems corrupted.

Any idea what the problem is?

Thanks,
Nick

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dmg

Comment #11: Fri, 6 Jan 2017, 3:01 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi,

I've got a lot of experience pushing chinese pcb services to the limits, and I have to tell you that they don't explain well what they mean about panelizing and extra cost. They charge you extra if:
-You want them to panelize your design
-You want them to add features to your panel
-You specify V grooving as separation method

Anything else gets through just fine, don't even bother asking, just send them the mechanical layer specifying where to cut, make sure that you don't go below 1mm routing tool diameter (better if you stick to >= 2mm) and maybe send them a picture of a 3D render of how the PCB should look like, that's it.

I've got a lot of panelized PCB's manufactured that way at no extra cost by elecrow, smart prototyping and such, and they've never complained.

I also panelized your pagodas, fitting all 3 PCB's on a single 50x70 board and sent them to elecrow. They're already manufactured and shipped, and I'm waiting for them to arrive.
This is what I sent them:
[img]http://i66.tinypic.com/hs8jl4.png[/img]
Using standard 50x100mm 2 layer PCB service for I think it was 12$
This is what they have manufactured (part of the order picture they send you when they ship it):
[img]http://i63.tinypic.com/160c006.png[/img]

By the way, can I make the coax wire shorter than 9 cm overall? I'd like to have mini pagodas with 5cm cable but I'm not sure if that would affect the performance. Thanks for the awesome design!

In SimpleScreenRecorder / Recording game audio:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #12: Thu, 5 Jan 2017, 3:13 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Shneekeythelost

There is now a dead easy way to use ALSA to record your audio and game audio without having to use JACK or jump through hoops or anything. This requires using an analog headset with the prongs going into the front headset/mike plugs. Not sure if this will work for a USB headset or not, but probably not.

First off, you'll need one of many different ALSA mixers. Find one, use it.

You should see a bunch of sliders. There's going to be two labeled 'front mike', one is able to be muted, and probably is by default, the other just doesn't have a mute button.

Adjust both front mike sliders (I would strongly advise AGAINST maxing them, try middle of the slider bar first), then un-mute. You should hear yourself over your mike in your headset. However, unlike the looping thing through Pulse, you don't have a brief delay which can be so annoying.

Now just record monitor of (I use monitor of analog just to be sure, but default should work), and you should get both game and mike audio. No looping, no JACK, it just works. Then when you are done recording, head to the ALSA mixer, mute the mike, and you're good to go.

I did this with a Razer Kraken Pro, but any headset which plugs in to the front of your tower should work using this method.

So you're saying that the 'monitor' feature in PulseAudio is able to capture not just sound from applications but also microphone sound if you enable hardware playthrough in the ALSA mixer settings? That's really surprising actually, I thought that PulseAudio didn't work that way.

Edit: I just tried this but I'm not getting any microphone sound in SSR. Are you sure that you didn't have any loopback plugins running in the background?

Last modified: Thu, 5 Jan 2017, 3:19 (GMT+1, DST)

In SimpleScreenRecorder / Recording game audio:

Shneekeythelost

Comment #13: Wed, 4 Jan 2017, 20:33 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


There is now a dead easy way to use ALSA to record your audio and game audio without having to use JACK or jump through hoops or anything. This requires using an analog headset with the prongs going into the front headset/mike plugs. Not sure if this will work for a USB headset or not, but probably not.

First off, you'll need one of many different ALSA mixers. Find one, use it.

You should see a bunch of sliders. There's going to be two labeled 'front mike', one is able to be muted, and probably is by default, the other just doesn't have a mute button.

Adjust both front mike sliders (I would strongly advise AGAINST maxing them, try middle of the slider bar first), then un-mute. You should hear yourself over your mike in your headset. However, unlike the looping thing through Pulse, you don't have a brief delay which can be so annoying.

Now just record monitor of (I use monitor of analog just to be sure, but default should work), and you should get both game and mike audio. No looping, no JACK, it just works. Then when you are done recording, head to the ALSA mixer, mute the mike, and you're good to go.

I did this with a Razer Kraken Pro, but any headset which plugs in to the front of your tower should work using this method.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #14: Sat, 31 Dec 2016, 19:21 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Dampf

Thanks for your reply.
Thats exactly what I meant.
I asked the guys at seeedstudios and they told me a design with slots/tabs is possible, but they didn´t told me how much they charge for something like that.
In the meantime an fpv buddy, who´s very talented in programing, altered the phyton script you provided with your design files and merged 9 gerbers to fit a 100x100 pcb, including breakaway tabs.
BTW: this is his website http://fishpepper.de/ I´m sure you´ll like it ;-)
We are now in search for a manufacturer who will do the job for us.
We are thinking of DirtyPCB´s, because they also provide laser cutting.
Once we have a solution, I´ll let you know how it went.

Please let me know whether you find a manufacturer that accepts it at a reasonable price. If they do, I will change the design files to take advantage of this.

Last modified: Sat, 31 Dec 2016, 19:26 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dampf

Comment #15: Fri, 30 Dec 2016, 17:18 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote

These manufacturers won't allow you to put multiple different PCBs on the same board (or they will charge you extra). E.g. with Seeedstudio the best you can do would be:

10 times 4x4 part1: 160 pieces for $10
10 times 4x4 part2: 160 pieces for $10
10 times 6x6 part3: 360 pieces for $10

You're lucky, Seeedstudio recently changed their pricing model so now this is quite affordable. There are structural integrity issues though - the PCBs will need to be attached to each other so the manufacturer can handle them as a single piece, otherwise they refuse this because you're basically making separate PCBs. And even then they may refuse it because of the amount of milling involved. You will have to manually separate the PCBs and file the rough edges.

I will look into it, but I'm not sure whether the manufacturer would accept something like this.

Thanks for your reply.
Thats exactly what I meant.
I asked the guys at seeedstudios and they told me a design with slots/tabs is possible, but they didn´t told me how much they charge for something like that.
In the meantime an fpv buddy, who´s very talented in programing, altered the phyton script you provided with your design files and merged 9 gerbers to fit a 100x100 pcb, including breakaway tabs.
BTW: this is his website http://fishpepper.de/ I´m sure you´ll like it ;-)
We are now in search for a manufacturer who will do the job for us.
We are thinking of DirtyPCB´s, because they also provide laser cutting.
Once we have a solution, I´ll let you know how it went.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #16: Thu, 29 Dec 2016, 21:00 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Knifa

Hey there! Are you able to post the source files for your design? The ones you provided are the Gerber files and I'm finding it tricky to get them imported into EAGLE.

The files were generated with Python scripts, which are also included in the design files. There are no other source files.

Quote: Dampf

Hello Maarten.
Thank you very much for your great design and moreover, making it open source.
We are a small group of multirotor enthusiasts and since everybody owns at least two quadcopters, we would like to make a whole bunch of your antennas.
So my question is, if you could provide a (gerber) file, that fits several designs on a 100x100 pcb, as most vendors like itead or seeedstudio provide?

best regards

These manufacturers won't allow you to put multiple different PCBs on the same board (or they will charge you extra). E.g. with Seeedstudio the best you can do would be:

10 times 4x4 part1: 160 pieces for $10
10 times 4x4 part2: 160 pieces for $10
10 times 6x6 part3: 360 pieces for $10

You're lucky, Seeedstudio recently changed their pricing model so now this is quite affordable. There are structural integrity issues though - the PCBs will need to be attached to each other so the manufacturer can handle them as a single piece, otherwise they refuse this because you're basically making separate PCBs. And even then they may refuse it because of the amount of milling involved. You will have to manually separate the PCBs and file the rough edges.

I will look into it, but I'm not sure whether the manufacturer would accept something like this.

Quote: Markiempje

Hi Maarten!

Great work, just before i order parts. Can i also use more flexible coax cable? say for instance less thick, flexible so i can route this cable the way i want. Is the length of the Coax cable best at 9cm as you stated, or can this be any arbritrary length (not too long) say 100-150mm?

thanks in advance!

Mark

The length doesn't matter as long as the antenna is a reasonable distance away from the quadcopter frame. However the antenna was specifically designed for 3.6mm semi-rigid coax, I wouldn't try it with flexible coax. Even if the diameter is the same, you will likely not be able to solder to it properly, and the PCBs won't stay parallel the way they are supposed to. Nothing stops you from routing semi-rigid coax through your model though.

Last modified: Thu, 29 Dec 2016, 21:03 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Markiempje

Comment #17: Thu, 29 Dec 2016, 9:55 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi Maarten!

Great work, just before i order parts. Can i also use more flexible coax cable? say for instance less thick, flexible so i can route this cable the way i want. Is the length of the Coax cable best at 9cm as you stated, or can this be any arbritrary length (not too long) say 100-150mm?

thanks in advance!

Mark

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dampf

Comment #18: Mon, 26 Dec 2016, 11:11 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hello Maarten.
Thank you very much for your great design and moreover, making it open source.
We are a small group of multirotor enthusiasts and since everybody owns at least two quadcopters, we would like to make a whole bunch of your antennas.
So my question is, if you could provide a (gerber) file, that fits several designs on a 100x100 pcb, as most vendors like itead or seeedstudio provide?

best regards

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Knifa

Comment #19: Mon, 19 Dec 2016, 13:08 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hey there! Are you able to post the source files for your design? The ones you provided are the Gerber files and I'm finding it tricky to get them imported into EAGLE.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Dave855

Comment #20: Fri, 16 Dec 2016, 0:08 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Hippo
Quote: Maarten Baert

If you want to go to a lower value instead (e.g. 0.8mm) then that's possible, although it still requires re-optimizing the entire design.

Ah, thanks. I do have some .5mm, but I worry that it would be too fragile. Don't do extra work on my behalf. I'll continue to see if I can track down some 1.0mm. Do you have a recommended source that ships to the US?

Thanks for responding,
-Dan

P.S. Out of curiosity, do you think it would work at all to mill down the unprinted side of 1.6mm to a 1mm thickness? I can do that. Also, I'd be interested in your version 1.0 files, as I usually fly in the lower end of the band, or a recommendation to scale the design into the 5.6gHz-5.7gHz range. Double thanks!

Hey Dan,

Sorry I'm late.
I do offer PCBs and free shipping in the US.

Once you go Pagoda you never go back! ;)

http://farvew.com/antenna-kits/38-pagoda-2-omni-antenna-rhcp.html

Last modified: Fri, 16 Dec 2016, 0:08 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #21: Thu, 8 Dec 2016, 23:36 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Sonic Turbulence

Good Day Maarten,

I am also into flying fvp quads and helis...I manufacture pc boards in south africa and would like to know if the holes need to be through hole plated for the antenna to work or could I make them just double sided without plating. Thanking you in advance.

Sonic

Technically it is possible to make them without through-hole plating, but the mechanical strength will be worse. Through-hole plating is definitely recommended.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Sonic Turbulence

Comment #22: Thu, 8 Dec 2016, 9:50 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Good Day Maarten,

I am also into flying fvp quads and helis...I manufacture pc boards in south africa and would like to know if the holes need to be through hole plated for the antenna to work or could I make them just double sided without plating. Thanking you in advance.

Sonic

In Quadcopters / Antennas:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #23: Wed, 7 Dec 2016, 23:22 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Lustertone

A couple of questions...
1 - Will having a covering (such as TPU) that goes around the outside of the two main antenna pcb's but does not go between them affect the performance?

Yes, but not by a huge amount. It depends on the dielectric constant and density of the material as well as the total volume (i.e. thickness in case of shells).

Quote: Lustertone

2 - Is the smaller disc acting as a balun for the antenna? If so, can material go between the lower PBC and the smaller disc without affecting performance?

Any material near any of the PCBs will have some impact. It is difficult to predict exactly how much. The volume between the second and third (smallest) PCB is less sensitive than the volume between the two top PCBs, but it still has an impact.

If you want to minimize the impact, use a foam with low RF loss, such as styrofoam. Avoid polyurethane (PU/PUR/TPU), it has much higher losses.

In SimpleScreenRecorder / Live streaming:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #24: Wed, 7 Dec 2016, 23:08 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Dega

Is it possible to use SSR to screencast to a ChromeCast dongle?

I have no idea. I don't have one.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Gorto

Comment #25: Tue, 6 Dec 2016, 10:31 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Hi Maarten, great antenna design and I have made a bunch of them. Will test them out tomorrow with my friends. Just want to say thank you for sharing your design.

Last modified: Tue, 6 Dec 2016, 10:31 (GMT+1, DST)

In Quadcopters / Antennas:

Lustertone

Comment #26: Mon, 5 Dec 2016, 22:57 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


A couple of questions...
1 - Will having a covering (such as TPU) that goes around the outside of the two main antenna pcb's but does not go between them affect the performance?
2 - Is the smaller disc acting as a balun for the antenna? If so, can material go between the lower PBC and the smaller disc without affecting performance?

In SimpleScreenRecorder / Live streaming:

Dega

Comment #27: Mon, 5 Dec 2016, 22:49 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Is it possible to use SSR to screencast to a ChromeCast dongle?

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #28: Sun, 4 Dec 2016, 23:04 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Hippo

Ah, thanks. I do have some .5mm, but I worry that it would be too fragile. Don't do extra work on my behalf. I'll continue to see if I can track down some 1.0mm. Do you have a recommended source that ships to the US?

Thanks for responding,
-Dan

P.S. Out of curiosity, do you think it would work at all to mill down the unprinted side of 1.6mm to a 1mm thickness? I can do that. Also, I'd be interested in your version 1.0 files, as I usually fly in the lower end of the band, or a recommendation to scale the design into the 5.6gHz-5.7gHz range. Double thanks!

FR4 is a composite material, you can't easily thin it like that without getting loose fibers sticking out everywhere. Also, you need two-sided PCBs in order to get a strong connection to the coax, otherwise the copper will just peel off. It may be more practical to just order the PCBs from Elecrow or a similar service.

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Hippo

Comment #29: Sun, 4 Dec 2016, 16:57 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Maarten Baert

If you want to go to a lower value instead (e.g. 0.8mm) then that's possible, although it still requires re-optimizing the entire design.

Ah, thanks. I do have some .5mm, but I worry that it would be too fragile. Don't do extra work on my behalf. I'll continue to see if I can track down some 1.0mm. Do you have a recommended source that ships to the US?

Thanks for responding,
-Dan

P.S. Out of curiosity, do you think it would work at all to mill down the unprinted side of 1.6mm to a 1mm thickness? I can do that. Also, I'd be interested in your version 1.0 files, as I usually fly in the lower end of the band, or a recommendation to scale the design into the 5.6gHz-5.7gHz range. Double thanks!

In Quadcopters / Pagoda antenna:

Maarten Baert

Administrator

Comment #30: Sat, 3 Dec 2016, 20:32 (GMT+1, DST)

Quote


Quote: Hippo

Hi,

Is it possible to calculate the layout for an antenna using standard 1.5/1.6mm PCB? I'd like to make some at home, but I can't find any 1.0mm anywhere. If it's a matter of scaling the file, or running the script with difference values, I can do, but beyond that I'd need an expert. I'm sure a lot of folks would like to make these at home though.

Thanks!
Dan

There is no easy way to scale the values, I would have to re-run the entire optimization process. Also, 1.6mm PCB would increase the losses significantly. I don't recommend it. If you want to go to a lower value instead (e.g. 0.8mm) then that's possible, although it still requires re-optimizing the entire design.